We got up, went to breakfast, checked out then headed to a state park in Key Largo. Rumor has it there are glass bottom boat tours of the reef here, and it sounded like a great way to end our vacation. When we got to the park the woman at the counter directed our attention to the seas chart, more specifically the bottom of the chart that said “Rough 3-5 ft. and Very Rough 5-7 ft.” referring to the swell height. Today’s conditions were going to be very rough, but the boat was going out to the reef and we could go along, assuming the risk of losing our breakfast. As macho as possible, we bought our tickets (and Dramamine) and boarded the boat.
The boat was full so we felt confident about our decision to bear the brunt of the waves. The Florida keys boasts the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world, following closely behind the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and a barrier reef in Belize. The ride out started out calm, winding our way through the mangroves. Once we hit open water it continually grew choppier and choppier. As the boat reached full speed, from the top observation deck Kristin and I saw a giant sea turtle! At first I thought it was a really big person until I realized what it was. I had no idea how big they were. Very cool. At top speed now the waves were really big. My stomach felt good, the spray off the bow was refreshing, and we all had a blast.
As we neared the reef the size of the waves became readily apparent. These were big waves, bigger than I had ever seen. As we slowed, the bow of the boat (this was no small boat, mind you) buried into the face of a wave and doused the entire boat. This brought great applause from the passengers. This high quickly passed. The captain told us to make our way below deck to see the reef. If you’ve ever been on a boat in heavy seas, you’ll know this was no easy feat. Imagine trying to stand upright on the back of an inebriated elephant as it struggles to its feet. That’s about what it feels like, only constant, unpredictable, and very very wet.
When we were finally below the magnitude of the seas really hit me. This boat was all over the place. Through the windows I saw the horizon line disappear into the sky, then bury into the waves, back into the sky, and so on. I started to sweat a little bit, but found a spot to look down into the coral. The captain said before he started his lesson on the reef, he wanted to say a few words about motion sickness. He rattled off a few of the warning signs. #1: Cold sweats (yup, got that). #2 Mild headache (uh huh). #3 Slight nausea (check). He said if you are feeling any of these symptoms, head up to the top deck immediately. It’s your only hope. Well, I couldn’t get out of there fast enough. I’m guessing there were about 60 people on this boat. By the time I found my way up to the top deck, I was there with about 45 of them. The crew passed out peppermints (a natural way to ease your stomach) and he told us all to just stare at the horizon. Do not look down, do not look around, just stare at that horizon. I’ve never stared a something in the distance for so long, so intently, in my entire life. For 45 minutes it took all the strength I had to not hurl violently into the Atlantic ocean. And Kristin was right by my side. To her left a young boy hacked into a barf bag. Behind us people were moaning, whining, coughing, vomiting, and generally regretting they ever set foot on this boat. Dan, however, was downstairs enjoying the luxuriously uncrowded viewing area of the reef. He had a great time.
When the boat finally began to head back to shore we saw another boat make its way out toward the reef. At one point it rose over a wave, it’s bow pointed at the sky, and moments later it’s stern doing the same. Yup, this was some rough water.
Even with the cold sweats, nausea, and chorus of nausea, it was a worthwhile trip. We ended up seeing two sea turtles, had a blast riding out there, and at least Dan got to see some of the reef.
[Note: no pictures of this part of the trip. At first I felt if I let go of the railing I'd be sent careening off the boat, then, I felt if I took my eyes of the horizon I'd spew all over my pants, which I had purchased for $19.99 the day before and they were awesome pants, just like Bear Grylls' pants, so I didn't want to do that. Sorry]
After our stomachs were once again intact we had our final meal in the Keys. Dan and I had lobster bisque and fresh locally caught Yellowtail, and Kristin head fresh Dolphin (Mahi Mahi). For dessert we, of course, had a slice of Key Lime pie.
It was a fantastic trip, did just about everything we wanted with a hint of a desire to come back (Dan still needs to catch that marlin). I had fantastic traveling companions, we had great weather, and memorable times. Where to next year?